A Turkish Day

I woke up late the day after my flight to find I already had plans for the evening with Suzan’s friends the included beer and fried mussels. There was no argument that I was up for that. It was well into afternoon but both Suzan and I having had a late night were up for a good Turkish breakfast.

Suzan had called a near by vintage clothing store to start a fire for us and have tea ready. Friends of hers from her studies own it I believe. Suzan’s charm overcame the grumblings from the boys, that it was to late in the day for morning tea by the fire, and so our trip around the neighbourhood started sitting in front of a brick fireplace in the back of a musty shop with vintage charm that apparently runs a hostel on the top floors of the building. Suzan’s friends were perfect gentle men and welcomed a handshake rather than trying to kiss me on the cheek, which is the traditional sort of greeting here. I have been told I say hello very “graciously but I need to learn to kiss people on the cheek so they will remember me because I blend in to much” Honestly no one has bothered me so I kind of like blending it. They spoke English where possible and after a good chat we were on our way to the internet office to double check that I could use the internet as much as I wanted with out additional charges.

Then I was marched through a shop for bread and then a vegetable stand where Suzan determined the fruit to be not up to standard, then to our little grocery store where I was given samples of cheese by the shop workers who were determined to find one I liked and gave us an exceptionally good price of 2TL which is about $1.50 the amount they gave us would have been about $8 back home.

Next a tour of close by coffee shops where I could work from if I lost my connection. All of them had furniture I could only dream of owning. From the modern to the graceful Victorian style that was beautifully reupholstered. These small places pay attention to details and qualities that you would only expect of an establishment running out of a five star hotel back home. It was jaw dropping that places with reasonable prices could be well staffed and glamorous and seem to be successfully run businesses.

Back to our apartment, we had completed all this in about the same distance as it would take to walk from the Fort Garry hotel in Winnipeg to the Starbucks on Broadway. The amount of businesses crammed into a small area is absolutely mind boggling to the average Canadian. Take Osborne during Canada day double the shops and times the street by five side by side and you might get an accurate idea of the neighbourhood I am living in. Of course it doesn’t stop after a couple of streets it just goes on and on, it’s just with so much on a few streets you don’t really need to go that far to get more options for things to buy eat and drink than Winnipeg has entirely 3 times over.

After an good Turkish breakfast, eggs, tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, bagels with coffee since we had enjoyed quite a few glasses of tea at this point, we had the afternoon to sit about I spent some time skyping people back home letting work know I was up and running with an internet connection. When night fell we dressed and headed for the tram. Suzan set me up with a pass and I was introduced to “the party bus” this is where they attach a tram to the back of another tram that a band plays in so you have entertainment while you ride. Before getting to the eatery we stopped for juice. 1TL gets you a cup of “juice” that is made fresh from the fruit right in from of you. They shoved to apples into a juicer and handed me a cup of apple juice fresh and sweet enough to make you pucker.

An evening of downing beers, fresh mussels, calamari, and bread with olive oil. Cost me 45 TL it was 88 for the 4 of us after about 11 beers and food for 4.  I paid for Suzan since she has been feeding me and letting me scrounge off her things which I couldn’t pack or forgot to. Darn good price.

After that a few twists and turns of shop packed streets and vendors later, glitter glass work lanterns sparkled like jewels in windows, various foods roasting in little eateries and on carts filled the air with delightful smells with the exception of the section of fish stalls we walked past which were expectedly “fishy” smelling. We ended up at the entrance of a little bar up a flight of stairs and a ride in the smallest elevator I have ever met. This brought us to a loft style gypsy bar where a band was playing music on the violin, clarinet and something else I can’t name. The singer was brilliant, and I am told the clarinet player was quite famous.

The treat for me though, as much as I did very very much enjoy the music was the rolling panoramic view of the city that rolled on and on and out of sight to where I am sure it continued on still. Loft style houses and clubs all the way down to street level, short and tall apartment buildings and hotels all sparking in the night. Welcome to Istanbul.. Three months will be no where near enough to get to know the secrets of this vast city of enchantment… but I am willing to make a good stab at it.

In closing I must report that I have met my first pick pocket. Her name is Georgie and she is a little black cat who is determined my Ipod shuffle belongs to her and will literally pick it up in her mouth and run off with it. If she hides it… I have a feeling I won’t get it back.